New Zealand

Varieties

New Zealand Red

C. P. Gilmore, was the first President of the New Zealand red club 1916. Back then, there was not yet such a thing as a New Zealand white rabbit. Cortland Palmer (C. P.) Gilmore was born in 1889 and died in 1981. He was the first president of the National New Zealand Red Rabbit Club in 1916, a precursor to the American Federation of New Zealand Rabbit Breeders. Together, with National Pet Stock Association of America founder, Charles S Gibson, Gilmore was responsible for the first New Zealand red rabbit Standard of Perfection which was adopted by the Association in 1916. From his Santa Barbara rabbitry, for many years Gilmore offered a correspondence course on raising rabbits and a 1917 hard-bound book titled “The New Zealand Red Rabbit and Rabbit Culture.”

New Zealand White

The white variety was created in 1917 by William S. Preshaw .The first litter of what will become New Zealand White rabbits were born in 1917 when a New Zealand Red doe had four albino kits, Angora was also used in the early development of the White New Zealand Variety. Whites were recognized by ARBA in 1920

New Zealand Blue

Blue was originally accepted in the early 1900's but then was renamed the Vienna Blue which went extinct in the USA, Blue was latter reintroduced years latter.

Origin

New Zealand rabbits were developed in California and Indiana at the same time, from a mix of breeds, including Belgian hares and Flemish giants. Developed for their quick growth rates and meat type. New Zealand was added to the US rabbit standard in 1916. The Original Color of New Zealand was Red. Reds remained more popular for meat for some time, whites quickly caught on because of their white pelt, which could be easily dyed and was more valuable in the fur market.

quick notes:

New Zealand Red was the original New Zealand .

White were developed by using several breeds including Angora

Blacks were developed using American Chinchilla and Satins.

Broken were recently added and developed by David Cardinal among other prominent breeders .

there are 5 distinct New Zealand Rabbit breeds that are recognized by ARBA. New Zealand White Rabbit in 1920 and Black New Zealands in 1958. The newest additions to the breed are the broken variety, which was accepted by ARBA in 2010 and the blue variety which had the same luck in late 2016.

Class

The New Zealand is a 6 class rabbit.

Breeding

Hybrids and Cross Breeding **New Zealand Focused Section

I want to talk about "hybrid" and crosses to improve type and other qualities. Mainly because I see this over and over and over on meat rabbit groups… well, any of the rabbit groups…even the ARBA groups.

“ The creation of hybrids in our own New  Zealand breed is not a new practice. We  have introduced breeds to improve fur,  type, flesh, color and overall health of  our rabbits. If we are to continue to  improve the New Zealand Breed, introducing  new gene pools by creating hybrids may  just quicken our journey in our quest for  the perfect New Zealand. Hybrids just may  be our next generation! However we need to  be disciplined in our breeding programs so  as to maintain the integrity of our New  Zealand breed set forth in our breed  standard.”

HYBRIDS –THE NEXT GENERATION “ 
an article by David A. Mangione Associate 
Professor The Ohio State University

Frequently, mostly newer breeders and those taught with a pretty black and white mindset on breed purity, will scold or shame, or bad mouth, even newer breeders or older more knowledgeable breeders without realizing it. When a " sport" color is shown, or someone, normally a newbie has produced their first litter and had a non-standard color pop up. Typically, the exchange goes like this (paraphrased actual conversation I have seen multiple times) “Obviously your breeder lied to you and your rabbit can not possibly be " purebred" because your New Zealand white was bred to a New Zealand black and produced a chinchilla kit.” “You should cull your whole line and buy from me because we ONLY produce showable colors, that’s how we know they are pure. “ (looks at persons rabbits, yup they are white, but narrow, long shouldered and lack depth). This is unfortunate and does 2 things. First, it is gatekeeping teaching new breeders that their stock is “ bad”, without actually addressing the quality of the rabbit.

Secondly, it ignores the fact that rabbits are judged on Phenotype; and with some very basic understanding of genetics, corrections can be made to selectively get your herd back to standard. To try to illustrate this: You have 2 houses, one is a ramshackle shack with holes in the roof, mold, and a poor foundation, but it is painted pleasing colors. The other is solid, warm, and dry but is painted neon pink and green. Which would you prefer? A pretty house that's falling apart? Or the funny color house that's well built, safe and warm? What comments like this do, that demonize “sport” colors or cross breeds, is to completely discount the structure or how that animal aside from it’s color may actually benefit a program. It is far easier for a new breeder to correct color than type. If an off-color rabbit or another breed will be beneficial in the long game to mix into the lines it should not be counted out.

Also, the “dirty little secret” that a lot of breeders are afraid to address, is the fact that they are in fact breeding in other breeds, currently many New Zealand breeders ARE adding Californian to their lines to improve depth. Even the New Zealand Club condones out crossing to better the breed. David Mangione himself wrote the article on hybrid crosses and when it is appropriate to use them. I breed every color variety of New Zealand and ours are all from National convention winner lines. Off colors can't be shown, but they still can be very valuable if you understand what traits you are breeding toward. Ie: high rufus wide band chestnuts are sought after in red programs. Cals are frequently being bred into the lines to improve depth. The black was developed by using AM chins, and our BOB/Nationals placing Sr doe throws cal-colored kits. I have no problem adding Californian in measured amounts, but I personally would caution on over exaggerating the type which is becoming a trend. Adding some depth is ok , as long it is not done to the extreme. There are a few circles of breeders who are trying to turn the New Zealand into Giant Florida whites, adding too much depth, at the fault of twisting the pelvis under to give an illusion of Height while chopping the ass, and tighten the shoulder to an extreme. Keep in mind, commercial type should be balanced. shoulders should be short but not so short to be compact, a healthy 2 finger width is ideal with a steep smooth rise to a peak over the mid-thigh, then a smooth slope to the table where the rabbit should be flat and solid. Too much depth without balance of width, creates a rabbit who’s peak is moved before the knee, and a chopped ass ending in too steep a drop from point to table, and an under cut or rotated pelvis. This is an issue that will affect ability to kindle in does, and can cause back problems and hip issues in bucks. It is a frequent finding in rabbits with arthritis. Then there are other places, where outcrossing to improve type is very much acceptable, I use New Zealand reds in my Harlequin lines to improve type , and rufus. This also brings me to my third point, Disclosure. It is Extremely important to Disclose F1 out crosses on Pedigrees and have conversations with buyers so they understand what they are getting!

New people need to understand that they are buying the rabbit in front of them . Just as a judge is judging the rabbit in front of them, against the SOP for THAT class the rabbit is entered in. I have a few rabbits that I would without hesitation enter in a breed class as that mix, but wouldn’t sell kits as that same class breed. I have a phenotypical New Zealand White , that is only going to be bred into my harlequin line. If he produces any REW kits they will be either sold as is with no pedigree, or come with explanation of the out cross so if his kits get bred back to a New Zealand Red there is a note that harlequin color is a distinct possibility. This doesn’t matter at all if his offspring are intended for a meat program, or if the breeder only ever plan to breed white to white. It is just something that needs to be considered so there are no surprises. We have a Convention Purchase BOB Broken Black NZ doe, beautiful type, she throws cal kits every litter. Because somewhere in her pedigree she had a Cal ancestor. Not sure how far back. She was out of a Shumaker doe, she is registrable, but she throws cal colored kits. If that was posted on a lot of the meat groups someone would be in the comments claiming she can’t be purebred. But the fact is, except for the possibility of her throwing off colors, we have a very Well bred, 5+ generation Purebred New Zealand doe. Another interesting history to be noted in our breed, Angora was used when developing new zealand Whites, because of this some white still carry the “ fuzzy gene” , it doesn't mean that rabbit isn’t “pure bred” it is just something that can crop up and in most cases should be noted or culled.

Why is learning basic genetics as a breeder so important? For one, it solves and explains a lot of the mystery of “where did this color come from?” . It also opens up your breeding pool to incorporate sport colors to improve body type. There are some excellent resources to learn the basics of Rabbit genetics to assist in selecting traits to improve your herd depending on your goals. I highly encourage you to read “ HYBRIDS –THE NEXT GENERATION “ and article by David A. Mangione Associate Professor The Ohio State University , watch: Introduction to Rabbit Coat Color Genetics by Dr. Stephan Roush and Advanced Rabbit Color Genetics by Dr. Stephan Roush , or check out our Wiki genetics Pages over at the BunClub wiki.

To continue, knowing what needs to be culled from your lines is also important . Their are " safe" sport colors you can cross into a New Zealand breeding pool and unsafe colors. "Safe" colors that you can cross into a new Zealand breeding pool include, Tort, Chestnut/Copper, Chinchilla, Squirrel/blue chinchilla, Opal , semi safe colors you can cross into a new Zealand pool are: Steel*, Chocolate*, Lilac*, Amber, . risky colors to cross into New Zealand are Harlequin/ tricolor, Vienna-Blue eyes white, Silver/champagne, Dutch, Lutino.

The 5 recognized colors of New Zealand's as of 2023 are:

• New Zealand Red A-B-C-D-ee or A-bbC-D-ee
• New Zealand White ----cc----
• New Zealand Blue aaB-C-ddE-
• New Zealand Black aaB-C-D-E-
• New Zealand Broken any color + Enen

Hidden Recessives that occur :

• A loci Agouti Red base color: A can hide "a" self, "at" tan typically is not seen in New Zealand but can hide on Reds "A"

• B loci is Black, some Reds had Chocolate bred into them to hide smut, so occasionally Bb ( phenotypically black), or bb chocolate based

• C loci Red, Black, Blue and Broken should all be "C", chd, ch, can hide on this loci and be brought out when bred to a White "cc", chl shouldn't be in New Zealand but shaded can also hide under "C" and only become visible if bred to a white. self Chinchilla black rabbits(aaB-chd-D-E-) came from AM chinchilla and Satins bred into the Blacks during development. the "chd" gene sometimes causes marble eyes a DQ.

• D loci: Full density of Color, Reds, and Blacks "D" or "Dd"-, Blues are Dilutes "dd"

• E loci" Blacks, and Blue ideally should be "E" for full color regular extension. Reds are all "ee" for non-extension

other combinations on specifically Black and Blue rabbits that can appear to be solid but care actually cryptic are : Super Steel: a Black presenting rabbit that may genetically look like any of the following :

• aaBCDESES-Self hiding super steel black
• aaBCDESe - Self hiding super steel black
• A-BCDESES- Agouti super steel appears self black
• A-BCDESe - Agouti super steel appears self black

• Ed- dominate black make and Agouti rabbit appear self black.

A lightly marked ej - can appear RED, this is dangerous and while New Zealand's can be crossed into Harlequins to improve type , harlequin should not be crossed into New Zealand. When you do label that line and fully disclose what is in it. I have one line labeled composites that typically only gets sold with disclosed ancestry as meat stock. I do 7 generations of test breeding back to pure reds before I would feel safe calling it a red again.

next section will be on sport colors and how to breed back to standard and flush out or ideally lessen your chances of having surprise genes .

Safe Sport color, and intern steps while improving type or testing for modifiers.

a Red bred to a REW with the goal being to add size or type will likely produce Steels or Chestnuts in the first generation.

a steel from this pairing will always have the following gene pairs, "Cc" and "ESe", it will also have to be "A-" on agouti to show steel tipping. a chestnut or copper from this pairing will always have these gene pairs "Cc" and "Ee" and be "A-" at agouti.

select either of these rabbits and to breed back for red cross them with a typy red "A-" "C-" "ee",

this will flush out a few things. you should get some red kits, the steel may produce,

Red : A-B-C-D-ee Steel: A-B-C-D-Ese White: ----cc---e

• • • Section in development will do a full breakdown with pictures and detailed breeding probabilities ***** if you have any immediate questions and want to pick my brain about color message me on facebook at MMC Farmstead or join BunClub

semi-safe colors you can cross into a new Zealand

Steel*, Chocolate*, Lilac*, Amber,

Risky colors to cross into New Zealand that would best be avoided

Harlequin/ tricolor, Vienna-Blue eyes white, Silver/champagne, Dutch, Lutino.

I read all that and I still want to breed a large New Zealand Type Tri-color or Brindled Rabbit

Awesome. I have a side Project Developing a NEW BREED kept Separate from New Zealand's that fits all those categories with out bringing in potentially dangerous genetics to a breed I'd like to try to preserve and improve. Please check out the PartiQuin Page that talks about our current Progress in Breed development.