Rabbit Starter Guide

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Before you get a Rabbit

Before you get a rabbit. First research what type of rabbit is going to best fit your lifestyle. Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination of these? = Rabbit Starter Guide =

Before You Get a Rabbit

Before getting a rabbit, research which type best fits your lifestyle. Consider whether you want a pet, plan to raise rabbits for meat, or are interested in showing. Some may combine these purposes, but careful planning is essential.

Pet Rabbits

Check whether your living arrangement and local ordinances allow rabbits. Rabbits are generally quiet, low-odor pets that require moderate space. Most breeds are easy to care for once basic needs are met, but breed-specific requirements—such as grooming, flooring, or exercise space—must be considered.

  • **Size:** Rabbits range from ~2 lbs to 25+ lbs full-grown. Choose a breed appropriate for your housing, feed budget, and available time.

Show Rabbits

Joining ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) and breed-specific clubs is highly recommended if you plan to show or breed rabbits.

Selecting Show Rabbits

  • Research breeds to match your showing goals.
  • Pedigree does **not** guarantee show quality. A rabbit may have an excellent pedigree but still be disqualified (DQ) for minor faults.
  • Bring an experienced breeder or mentor when selecting a show rabbit.
  • Select rabbits free of DQs and representative of the breed standard.

Selecting Breeds for Children

  • **Hardy small breeds:** Mini Rex, Mini Satin, Holland Lop, Mini Lop.
  • **More fragile breeds:** Netherland Dwarf, Britannia Petite (very small or delicate builds).
  • Consider temperament: some small breeds may be nervous or high-strung and not suitable for children.

Registered Rabbits

  • ARBA does **not require registration** to show rabbits.
  • Registration requires ARBA membership, a 3-generation pedigree, and a licensed registrar to submit details to ARBA.
  • Pedigree tracks ancestry and informs breeding decisions but does **not guarantee quality**.

Pedigree vs. Non-Pedigree

  • Pedigrees are tools for tracking ancestry and making informed crosses.
  • They include breed, variety, tattoo, and weight for at least three generations.
  • Even non-pedigreed rabbits can be high-quality pets or meat stock.

Meat Rabbits

  • Popular commercial meat breeds: New Zealand White, Rex, Californian, or mixes.
  • Choose stock adapted to your climate and verify growth rates (~5 lbs by 10 weeks ideal).
  • Evaluate health: check for good body condition, parasite-free, strong rear feet, straight legs, wide base, and absence of pinched hips or hollow loin.

Environment

  • Outdoor enclosures must be secure, sheltered from wind/rain, and kept cool in summer. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat.
  • Provide fans, ice bottles, ceramic tiles, and extra water when temperatures exceed 80°F.
  • Gradually acclimate rabbits to temperature changes to avoid shock.
  • For winter, provide insulated hides, heated water bottles, windbreaks, and straw or hay bedding.

Housing

  • Housing varies by breed; options include metal wire cages and hutches.
  • Wire floors provide sanitation and nail support but must be properly gauged.
  • Indoor setups: 24x24 inch wire cage with X-pen for a safe, supervised area.
  • Free-roaming without a retreat space can elevate stress and cortisol levels.

Feeding

  • A 10 lb rabbit consumes ~50 lbs of quality pellets every 2 months; smaller breeds consume ~50 lbs every 4 months.
  • Store feed in a cool, dark, dry place and use within 6 months of bagging.
  • For detailed feeding guidelines, see Rabbit Nutrition.

Enrichment

  • Even caged rabbits require toys: cardboard tubes with hay, wooden blocks, baby toys, alfalfa/timothy cubes.
  • Observe preferences; provide variety to stimulate natural behaviors.

Health Check

  • Learn routine health checking procedures before acquiring rabbits.
  • Daily: inspect body, ears, eyes, nose, teeth, and toes.
  • Trim nails as needed and monitor for abnormalities such as bumps, cuts, discharge, or uneven teeth.
  • Watch for behavioral or appetite changes.

Emergency Plan

  • Maintain carriers and have a plan for disasters (hurricanes, fire, etc.).
  • Train rabbits to enter carriers calmly.
  • Recommended medical kit contents:
    • Safeguard, Baycox, Jumpstart paste, raw honey
    • Pen G, LA200, probiotic powder, BounceBack, electrolyte powder
    • Luer lock syringes (1cc, 3cc), dosing syringes (3cc), needles 22g & 14g
    • Mineral or olive oil, Ivermectin (injectable & pour-on)
    • Gauze, tape, kitten cone collars, towels, nail clippers, slicker brush, talcum powder
    • Karo syrup, septic powder, alcohol, Bactine, lidocaine spray, Vaseline, Monistat 7, athlete's foot cream, triple antibiotic ointment (no painkillers), children's Benadryl liquid