Difference between revisions of "Rabbit Starter Guide"

Latest revision as of 20:41, 26 August 2025

Before you get a Rabbit

Before you get a rabbit. First research what type of rabbit is going to best fit your lifestyle. Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination of these? = Rabbit Starter Guide =

Before You Get a Rabbit

Before getting a rabbit, research which type best fits your lifestyle. Consider whether you want a pet, plan to raise rabbits for meat, or are interested in showing. Some may combine these purposes, but careful planning is essential.

Pet Rabbits

Check whether your living arrangement and local ordinances allow rabbits. Rabbits are generally quiet, low-odor pets that require moderate space. Most breeds are easy to care for once basic needs are met, but breed-specific requirements—such as grooming, flooring, or exercise space—must be considered.

**Size:** Rabbits range from ~2 lbs to 25+ lbs full-grown. Choose a breed appropriate for your housing, feed budget, and available time.

Show Rabbits

Joining ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) and breed-specific clubs is highly recommended if you plan to show or breed rabbits.

Selecting Show Rabbits

Research breeds to match your showing goals.
Pedigree does **not** guarantee show quality. A rabbit may have an excellent pedigree but still be disqualified (DQ) for minor faults. And a non-Pedigree rabbit may be your next Best in Show winner.
Bring an experienced breeder or mentor when selecting a show rabbit.
Select rabbits free of DQs and representative of the breed standard.

Selecting Breeds for Children

**Hardy small breeds:** Mini Rex, Mini Satin, Holland Lop, Mini Lop.
**More fragile breeds:** Netherland Dwarf, Polish, Britannia Petite (very small or delicate builds).
Consider temperament: some small breeds may be nervous or high-strung and not suitable for children. Britannia petite is not recommended for kids, or as a first time rabbit .

Registered Rabbits

ARBA does **not require registration** to show rabbits.
Registration requires ARBA membership, a 3-generation pedigree, and a licensed registrar to submit details to ARBA.
Pedigree tracks ancestry and informs breeding decisions but does **not guarantee quality**.

Pedigree vs. Non-Pedigree

Pedigree is NOT REQUIRED TO SHOW.
Pedigrees are tools for tracking ancestry and making informed crosses.
They include breed, variety, tattoo, and weight for at least three generations.
Non-pedigreed rabbits can be high-quality or used meat stock. You need to be able to evaluate the rabbit in front of you.

Meat Rabbits

Popular commercial meat breeds: New Zealand White, Rex, Californian, or mixes.
Choose stock adapted to your climate and verify growth rates (~5 lbs by 10 weeks ideal).
Evaluate health: check for good body condition, parasite-free, strong rear feet, straight legs, wide base, and absence of pinched hips or hollow loin.

Environment

Outdoor enclosures must be secure, sheltered from wind/rain, and kept cool in summer. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat.
Provide fans, ice bottles, ceramic tiles, and extra water when temperatures exceed 80°F.
Gradually acclimate rabbits to temperature changes to avoid shock.
For winter, provide insulated hides, heated water bottles, windbreaks, and straw or hay bedding.

Housing

Housing varies by breed; options include metal wire cages and hutches.
Wire floors provide sanitation and nail support but must be properly gauged.
Indoor setups: 24x24 inch wire cage with X-pen for a safe, supervised area.
Free-roaming without a retreat space can elevate stress and cortisol levels.

Feeding

A 10 lb rabbit consumes ~50 lbs of quality pellets every 2 months; smaller breeds consume ~50 lbs every 4 months.
Store feed in a cool, dark, dry place and use within 6 months of bagging.
For detailed feeding guidelines, see Rabbit Nutrition.

Enrichment

Even caged rabbits require toys: cardboard tubes with hay, wooden blocks, baby toys, alfalfa/timothy cubes.
Observe preferences; provide variety to stimulate natural behaviors.

Health Check

Learn routine health checking procedures before acquiring rabbits.
Daily: inspect body, ears, eyes, nose, teeth, and toes.
Trim nails as needed and monitor for abnormalities such as bumps, cuts, discharge, or uneven teeth.
Watch for behavioral or appetite changes.

Emergency Plan

Maintain carriers and have a plan for disasters (hurricanes, fire, etc.).
Train rabbits to enter carriers calmly.
Recommended medical kit contents:
- Safeguard, Baycox, Jumpstart paste, raw honey
- Pen G, LA200, probiotic powder, BounceBack, electrolyte powder
- Luer lock syringes (1cc, 3cc), dosing syringes (3cc), needles 22g & 14g
- Mineral or olive oil, Ivermectin (injectable & pour-on)
- Gauze, tape, kitten cone collars, towels, nail clippers, slicker brush, talcum powder
- Karo syrup, septic powder, alcohol, Bactine, lidocaine spray, Vaseline, Monistat 7, athlete's foot cream, triple antibiotic ointment (no painkillers), children's Benadryl liquid

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 Before you get a rabbit.
 First research what type of rabbit is going to best fit your lifestyle.
-Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting  to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination  of these?
+Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting  to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination  of these? = Rabbit Starter Guide =
-===Pet Rabbits===
+== Before You Get a Rabbit ==
-If you are looking for a pet,  does your living arrangement and county ordnance  allow rabbits?
+Before getting a rabbit, research which type best fits your lifestyle. Consider whether you want a pet, plan to raise rabbits for meat, or are interested in showing. Some may combine these purposes, but careful planning is essential.
-Rabbits are typically a quiet pet , that don't take up too much space and tend to be lo-odor with regular maintenance.
+=== Pet Rabbits ===
-They are fairly easy to care for as long as their needs are all met. There are some breed specific maintenance  that you should keep in mind when selecting a breed for you.
+Check whether your living arrangement and local ordinances allow rabbits. Rabbits are generally quiet, low-odor pets that require moderate space. Most breeds are easy to care for once basic needs are met, but breed-specific requirements—such as grooming, flooring, or exercise space—must be considered.
-First what size rabbit are you looking for?
+* **Size:** Rabbits range from ~2 lbs to 25+ lbs full-grown. Choose a breed appropriate for your housing, feed budget, and available time.
-Rabbits range in size from 2 lbs full grown up to 25+lbs. So figuring out what  Breed is an important when planning your Setup, and factoring Costs of Feed and Time.
-===Show Rabbits===
+=== Show Rabbits ===
+Joining ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) and breed-specific clubs is highly recommended if you plan to show or breed rabbits.
-====Selecting Show Rabbits====
+==== Selecting Show Rabbits ====
-Just like selecting a pet you will want to research the Breeds to see which one will fit with your Showing Goals. To clear things up right off the bat, to show a rabbit all you need is a rabbit that meets the Standard of Perfection for the breed you are showing in, and Have no disqualifying features. Pedigree does not guarantee  you are getting a quality showable Rabbit.  You may find a Winning Show Rabbit off of Craigslist or from a 4Her at the county fair, or you could end up with a complete Dud that has a stellar Pedigree going back generations that is a DQ because it has a wrong colored toenail.
+* Research breeds to match your showing goals.
+* Pedigree does **not** guarantee show quality. A rabbit may have an excellent pedigree but still be disqualified (DQ) for minor faults. And a non-Pedigree  rabbit may be your next Best in Show winner.
+* Bring an experienced breeder or mentor when selecting a show rabbit.
+* Select rabbits free of DQs and representative of the breed standard.
-====Registered Rabbits====
+==== Selecting Breeds for Children ====
-ARBA does NOT require a rabbit be registered to Show. ARBA rabbits are NOT  registered from birth like many other species. In order to register your rabbits or cavies, you must be a member of the ARBA. The rabbit or cavy must be at least 6 months of age, and you must have a 3 generation pedigree for the animal being registered. The pedigree must show the name and/or ear number, weight, and variety of the parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents (3 generations) of the animal being registered. (All ancestors in the 3 generations MUST be of the same breed as the animal being registered.) A licensed Registrar for the species must examine the animal and fill out an application for registration, which is sent to the ARBA office. The information for the registered animal is then entered into our computer system which will create a record of that animal for all time. A certificate of registration for the animal is then sent to you, the owner.
+* **Hardy small breeds:** Mini Rex, Mini Satin, Holland Lop, Mini Lop.
-[https://arba.net/faqs/#Q5 ARBA: How do I register my rabbitry or caviary?]
+* **More fragile breeds:** Netherland Dwarf, Polish, Britannia Petite (very small or delicate builds).
+* Consider temperament: some small breeds may be nervous or high-strung and not suitable for children. Britannia  petite  is not recommended for kids, or as a first time rabbit .
-====Pedigree or non-pedigree====
+=== Registered Rabbits ===
-If you Plan to Show or Breed at all, I highly recommend Joining ARBA, and your Breed Club.
+* ARBA does **not require registration** to show rabbits.
+* Registration requires ARBA membership, a 3-generation pedigree, and a licensed registrar to submit details to ARBA.
+* Pedigree tracks ancestry and informs breeding decisions but does **not guarantee quality**.
+=== Pedigree vs. Non-Pedigree ===
+* Pedigree is NOT REQUIRED TO SHOW.
+* Pedigrees are tools for tracking ancestry and making informed crosses.
+* They include breed, variety, tattoo, and weight for at least three generations.
+* Non-pedigreed rabbits can be high-quality or used  meat stock. You need to be able to evaluate the rabbit in front of you.
-===Meat Rabbits===
+=== Meat Rabbits ===
+* Popular commercial meat breeds: New Zealand White, Rex, Californian, or mixes.
+* Choose stock adapted to your climate and verify growth rates (~5 lbs by 10 weeks ideal).
+* Evaluate health: check for good body condition, parasite-free, strong rear feet, straight legs, wide base, and absence of pinched hips or hollow loin.
-==Environment==
+== Environment ==
+* Outdoor enclosures must be secure, sheltered from wind/rain, and kept cool in summer. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat.
+* Provide fans, ice bottles, ceramic tiles, and extra water when temperatures exceed 80°F.
+* Gradually acclimate rabbits to temperature changes to avoid shock.
+* For winter, provide insulated hides, heated water bottles, windbreaks, and straw or hay bedding.
-==Housing==
+== Housing ==
+* Housing varies by breed; options include metal wire cages and hutches.
+* Wire floors provide sanitation and nail support but must be properly gauged.
+* Indoor setups: 24x24 inch wire cage with X-pen for a safe, supervised area.
+* Free-roaming without a retreat space can elevate stress and cortisol levels.
-==Feeding==
+== Feeding ==
+* A 10 lb rabbit consumes ~50 lbs of quality pellets every 2 months; smaller breeds consume ~50 lbs every 4 months.
+* Store feed in a cool, dark, dry place and use within 6 months of bagging.
+* For detailed feeding guidelines, see [[Rabbit Nutrition]].
-==Enrichment==
+== Enrichment ==
+* Even caged rabbits require toys: cardboard tubes with hay, wooden blocks, baby toys, alfalfa/timothy cubes.
+* Observe preferences; provide variety to stimulate natural behaviors.
-==Emergency Plan==
+== Health Check ==
+* Learn routine health checking procedures before acquiring rabbits.
+* Daily: inspect body, ears, eyes, nose, teeth, and toes.
+* Trim nails as needed and monitor for abnormalities such as bumps, cuts, discharge, or uneven teeth.
+* Watch for behavioral or appetite changes.
+== Emergency Plan ==
+* Maintain carriers and have a plan for disasters (hurricanes, fire, etc.).
+* Train rabbits to enter carriers calmly.
+* Recommended medical kit contents:
+** Safeguard, Baycox, Jumpstart paste, raw honey
+** Pen G, LA200, probiotic powder, BounceBack, electrolyte powder
+** Luer lock syringes (1cc, 3cc), dosing syringes (3cc), needles 22g & 14g
+** Mineral or olive oil, Ivermectin (injectable & pour-on)
+** Gauze, tape, kitten cone collars, towels, nail clippers, slicker brush, talcum powder
+** Karo syrup, septic powder, alcohol, Bactine, lidocaine spray, Vaseline, Monistat 7, athlete's foot cream, triple antibiotic ointment (no painkillers), children's Benadryl liquid