Difference between revisions of "Rabbit Starter Guide"

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Before you get a rabbit.
Before you get a rabbit.
First research what type of rabbit is going to best fit your lifestyle.  
First research what type of rabbit is going to best fit your lifestyle.  
Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting  to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination  of these?  
Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting  to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination  of these? = Rabbit Starter Guide =


===Pet Rabbits===
== Before You Get a Rabbit ==
If you are looking for a pet, does your living arrangement and county ordnance  allow rabbits?
Before getting a rabbit, research which type best fits your lifestyle. Consider whether you want a pet, plan to raise rabbits for meat, or are interested in showing. Some may combine these purposes, but careful planning is essential.


Rabbits are typically a quiet pet , that don't take up too much space and tend to be lo-odor with regular maintenance.  
=== Pet Rabbits ===
Most Rabbits are easy pets to look after, once all their needs are all met. But their is some breed specific maintenance that you should keep in mind when selecting a breed for you. Certain breeds will require special Grooming, Flooring, or Extra room to exercise , so pay attention  and research your breeds to make sure you can meet the requirements and care for the animal you choose.  
Check whether your living arrangement and local ordinances allow rabbits. Rabbits are generally quiet, low-odor pets that require moderate space. Most breeds are easy to care for once basic needs are met, but breed-specific requirements—such as grooming, flooring, or exercise space—must be considered.


First what size rabbit are you looking for?
* **Size:** Rabbits range from ~2 lbs to 25+ lbs full-grown. Choose a breed appropriate for your housing, feed budget, and available time.
Rabbits range in size from 2 lbs full grown up to 25+lbs. So figuring out what  Breed is important when planning your Setup, and factoring Costs of Feed and Time.


===Show Rabbits===
=== Show Rabbits ===
If you Plan to Show or Breed at all, I highly recommend Joining ARBA, and your Breed Club.  
Joining ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) and breed-specific clubs is highly recommended if you plan to show or breed rabbits.


====Selecting Show Rabbits====
==== Selecting Show Rabbits ====
Just like selecting a pet you will want to research the Breeds to see which one will fit with your Showing Goals. To clear things up right off the bat, to show a rabbit all you need is a rabbit that meets the Standard of Perfection for the breed you are showing in, and Have no disqualifying features. Pedigree does not guarantee you are getting a quality showable Rabbit. You may find a Winning Show Rabbit off of Craigslist or from a 4Her at the county fair, or you could end up with a complete Dud that has a stellar Pedigree going back generations that is a DQ because it has a wrong colored toenail. When Selecting any Show prospect, take an experienced Breeder or mentor with you, or find a mentor that will walk you through the selection process and explain the good and bad points of each rabbit you look at. Many Rabbits are "Parts" Rabbits, but you will want to choose at least a Rabbit that is a good example of your chosen breed and has no DQ to start showing with.
* Research breeds to match your showing goals.
* Pedigree does **not** guarantee show quality. A rabbit may have an excellent pedigree but still be disqualified (DQ) for minor faults.
* Bring an experienced breeder or mentor when selecting a show rabbit.
* Select rabbits free of DQs and representative of the breed standard.


====Selecting breeds for kids====
==== Selecting Breeds for Children ====
  The question was what the hardiest smaller breeds , and which are most fragile?
* **Hardy small breeds:** Mini Rex, Mini Satin, Holland Lop, Mini Lop.  
* **More fragile breeds:** Netherland Dwarf, Britannia Petite (very small or delicate builds). 
* Consider temperament: some small breeds may be nervous or high-strung and not suitable for children.


All smaller breeds  will be more fragile. The compact type is going to be hardier then a arched one.
=== Registered Rabbits ===
* ARBA does **not require registration** to show rabbits.
* Registration requires ARBA membership, a 3-generation pedigree, and a licensed registrar to submit details to ARBA. 
* Pedigree tracks ancestry and informs breeding decisions but does **not guarantee quality**.


So for hardiness:
=== Pedigree vs. Non-Pedigree ===
Mini rex
* Pedigrees are tools for tracking ancestry and making informed crosses.
mini satin.
* They include breed, variety, tattoo, and weight for at least three generations.
holland lop,  
* Even non-pedigreed rabbits can be high-quality pets or meat stock.
mini lop


For fragility.
=== Meat Rabbits ===
Netherland dwarf just due to their extremely small size.
* Popular commercial meat breeds: New Zealand White, Rex, Californian, or mixes.
Britannia  petite for their builds
* Choose stock adapted to your climate and verify growth rates (~5 lbs by 10 weeks ideal).
* Evaluate health: check for good body condition, parasite-free, strong rear feet, straight legs, wide base, and absence of pinched hips or hollow loin.


But also take into consideration personality.
== Environment ==
A "mini satan", or a "crack squirrel" is not a kids rabbit. The Britannia petite actually has a pose called a "suicide pose" for a reason. They will slit your wrists and are typically not a breed meant for the faint of heart .
* Outdoor enclosures must be secure, sheltered from wind/rain, and kept cool in summer. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat.  
* Provide fans, ice bottles, ceramic tiles, and extra water when temperatures exceed 80°F.   
* Gradually acclimate rabbits to temperature changes to avoid shock.
* For winter, provide insulated hides, heated water bottles, windbreaks, and straw or hay bedding.


====Registered Rabbits====
== Housing ==
ARBA does NOT require a rabbit be registered to Show. ARBA rabbits are NOT registered from birth like many other species. In order to register your rabbits or cavies, you must be a member of the ARBA. The rabbit or cavy must be at least 6 months of age, and you must have a 3 generation pedigree for the animal being registered. The pedigree must show the name and/or ear number, weight, and variety of the parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents (3 generations) of the animal being registered. (All ancestors in the 3 generations MUST be of the same breed as the animal being registered.) A licensed Registrar for the species must examine the animal and fill out an application for registration, which is sent to the ARBA office. The information for the registered animal is then entered into the computer system which will create a record of that animal for all time. A certificate of registration for the animal is then sent to the owner.
* Housing varies by breed; options include metal wire cages and hutches.   
[https://arba.net/faqs/#Q5 ARBA: How do I register my rabbit or cavy?]
* Wire floors provide sanitation and nail support but must be properly gauged.
* Indoor setups: 24x24 inch wire cage with X-pen for a safe, supervised area.
* Free-roaming without a retreat space can elevate stress and cortisol levels.


====Pedigree or non-pedigree====
== Feeding ==
ARBA does NOT require a Pedigree to Show. A Pedigree is just a record of ancestors, even my meat mutts are pedigreed. Pedigrees at their most simple use are a tool to track ancestry and  for informed breeding choices  when choosing crosses. A complete Pedigree will include the Animals Breed, Variety, Tatoo, and Sr Weight, on all rabbits going back at least three generations. A pedigree does not guarantee quality.
* A 10 lb rabbit consumes ~50 lbs of quality pellets every 2 months; smaller breeds consume ~50 lbs every 4 months.
* Store feed in a cool, dark, dry place and use within 6 months of bagging. 
* For detailed feeding guidelines, see [[Rabbit Nutrition]].


===Meat Rabbits===
== Enrichment ==
* Even caged rabbits require toys: cardboard tubes with hay, wooden blocks, baby toys, alfalfa/timothy cubes. 
* Observe preferences; provide variety to stimulate natural behaviors.


If you want to start raising Rabbits for meat, I highly suggest choosing  base stock from a commercial breed of rabbit or mixes of commercial type breeds.  New Zealand of the White Variety, Rex, Californian and combinations of these breeds  are very popular meat breeds. you also have many breeds to choose from in the livestock conservatory you many want to consider raising to keep the breed from extinction. When Selecting your initial meat stock it is a good idea to select locally if possible from rabbit that are already familiar with your climate. you may also want to ask lots of questions about growth rate and size. Selecting meat breeders from show stock is not always a good idea, as many commercial show lines have focused on other traits in their rabbits, and you may find that they haven't been selecting for good growth rates. Ideally you want a line that comes as close to 5lbs by 10 weeks as possible for your best return on investment.  
== Health Check ==
* Learn routine health checking procedures before acquiring rabbits.   
* Daily: inspect body, ears, eyes, nose, teeth, and toes.   
* Trim nails as needed and monitor for abnormalities such as bumps, cuts, discharge, or uneven teeth.
* Watch for behavioral or appetite changes.


If selecting meat mutts off craigslist, be sure you  really get your hands on the rabbits feel them , they should have good flesh condition, weight at least 4lb by 8wks old, be free from parasites, and illness. check the quality of the  rear feet, they should of thick wide well furred feet, straight legs, and a good wide base. avoid any evidence of pinched hips, or hollowness of loin.
== Emergency Plan ==
 
* Maintain carriers and have a plan for disasters (hurricanes, fire, etc.).   
==Environment==
* Train rabbits to enter carriers calmly.   
 
* Recommended medical kit contents:
If you plan to keep your Rabbits outside, make sure they have a secured enclosure out of the wind and rain that can be kept cool. Rabbits tolerate freezing temperatures better then they tolerate Heat.
** Safeguard, Baycox, Jumpstart paste, raw honey
Rabbits over heat easily, when temperatures get above 80 degrees Fans, Ice bottles, cool ceramic tiles, and extra water should be offered. If you are selecting for Heat Hardy meat rabbits, the TAMUK New Zealand Whites and the TAMUK Composites are two  experimental lines of commercial meat rabbits that were specifically bred for heat tolerance. Unfortunately  since the experiment  ended their are few breeders who are selecting specifically for traits. It is best to buy from breeders who are close to your area or in a similar  climate.  Or from people who are actually developing and selecting on environmental  hardiness traits , such as the Senita project .
** Pen G, LA200, probiotic powder, BounceBack, electrolyte powder
** Luer lock syringes (1cc, 3cc), dosing syringes (3cc), needles 22g & 14g
Keeping Rabbits in the cold and over winter. Stuff hides with extra soft hay or straw, purchase heated water bottles, or frequently visit your rabbits to break ice and fill water bowls with warm water. Make sure you put up wind breaks and close up drafts to protect your rabbits from wind and wet.
** Mineral or olive oil, Ivermectin (injectable & pour-on)
 
** Gauze, tape, kitten cone collars, towels, nail clippers, slicker brush, talcum powder
Also keep in mind  sudden drastic changes in temperatures will kill Rabbits. So bringing them directly into Air-conditioning or heat  on a hot or freezing day if they aren't in the middle of a heat emergency can shock them. It's better to bring them into a cooler porch, attached garage, or  unheated room. In the winter when we had a nasty sudden cold snap around kitting time I brought my  Does and their new borns into an unheated bathroom.  and then wait to bring them back outside until you get a day that the temperatures is stable between the inside and outside. When I move my bucks back outside for the fall, I turn off the AC, I open all the windows in my house to get them reacclimated  to outside temps  before returning them to the barn.
** Karo syrup, septic powder, alcohol, Bactine, lidocaine spray, Vaseline, Monistat 7, athlete's foot cream, triple antibiotic ointment (no painkillers), children's Benadryl liquid
 
==Housing==
 
Housing will need to be modified depending on your chosen breed. You have several options for Rabbit Housing an Enclosures. Metal Wire Cages are the most popular  because they are sanitary, allow for a safe space for your rabbit, and have excellent airflow. Properly gauged wire floors also allow rabbits nails to sink in and prevent many foot problems associated with hard surfaces and carpeted floors.  Hutches are still popular in many places. for indoor set ups it's best to have a 24 x 24 in wire cage as a base for your Rabbit, with a X-pen set up to keep them confined to a rabbit safe area. Unsupervised Free Roaming is NOT recommended as rabbits show higher cortisol levels when they do not have a " burrow" or cage to retreat too.
 
==Feeding==
 
A single 10lb rabbit goes through approx one 50lb bag of high quality pelleted feed every 2 months. Smaller breeds will consume on average one 50lb bag of feed in 4 months. a bag of feed should be  stored in a cool dark dry place and finished with in 6 months from bagging date to ensure best quality. This should help you calculate your feed costs. there is a more detailed feeding guide  [https://mmcrabbits.com/BCWiki/index.php/Rabbit_Feeding_Guide here]
 
==Enrichment==
 
even cage rabbits should have some toys.  ours get basic toys to play with. Each has their own preference. you can use Cardboard tubes stuffed with hay, fencepost insulators, baby toys, untreated non-painted wooden blocks, alfalfa or timothy Horse Cubes.
 
==Health Check==
 
Before you get a rabbit, you should familiarize yourself with standard health checking procedures. when you are playing with your rabbit, keep and eye on it. study it. you will want to daily get a general lookover to make sure there are no abnormalities. a quick through exam will let you know how your rabbit is doing. a typical exam consists of getting your hands on your rabbit  running your hand over the body, and feeling for any bumps, cuts, or abnormalities. look at your rabbits eyes and nose  check for any mucus or discharge, roll your rabbit on it's back  check each of it's toes, taking note of any overly long, or missing toenails, this is a great time to give a quick trim. Check your rabbits teeth to make sure they are still even  and wearing correctly, uneven teeth or injuries need to be noted. Check the ears look down in them for any redness or scabs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaqdkBWCfSo Video on Proper handling links here.]
 
==Emergency Plan==
Have enough Carrier to move al your rabbits and a plan for transport in case of a hurricane or other disaster. Train your rabbits to be calm in a carrier.
 
a quick list of items you should keep in your medical box Safeguard, baycox, jumpstart paste, raw honey, pen G, la 200, probiotic powder, bounceback  powder, electrolyte powder,  luger lock syringes (1cc,3cc), dosing hook syringes (3cc), needles 22g ,and 14g, mineral or olive oil, Ivermectin injectable, ivermectin pour on,  gauze, tape, kitten cone collar, towels, nail clippers, slicker brush, talcum powder, kayro syrup , septic powder, alcohol,
Bactine spray, lidocaine spray, vasoline, monistat 7, athletes food cream , triple antibiotic ointment(no pain killer), Children's benadryl  liquid.

Latest revision as of 18:12, 16 August 2025

Before you get a Rabbit

Before you get a rabbit. First research what type of rabbit is going to best fit your lifestyle. Are you looking for a pet? Are you wanting to raise an animal for food? Do you want to get into Showing rabbits? Or a combination of these? = Rabbit Starter Guide =

Before You Get a Rabbit

Before getting a rabbit, research which type best fits your lifestyle. Consider whether you want a pet, plan to raise rabbits for meat, or are interested in showing. Some may combine these purposes, but careful planning is essential.

Pet Rabbits

Check whether your living arrangement and local ordinances allow rabbits. Rabbits are generally quiet, low-odor pets that require moderate space. Most breeds are easy to care for once basic needs are met, but breed-specific requirements—such as grooming, flooring, or exercise space—must be considered.

  • **Size:** Rabbits range from ~2 lbs to 25+ lbs full-grown. Choose a breed appropriate for your housing, feed budget, and available time.

Show Rabbits

Joining ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) and breed-specific clubs is highly recommended if you plan to show or breed rabbits.

Selecting Show Rabbits

  • Research breeds to match your showing goals.
  • Pedigree does **not** guarantee show quality. A rabbit may have an excellent pedigree but still be disqualified (DQ) for minor faults.
  • Bring an experienced breeder or mentor when selecting a show rabbit.
  • Select rabbits free of DQs and representative of the breed standard.

Selecting Breeds for Children

  • **Hardy small breeds:** Mini Rex, Mini Satin, Holland Lop, Mini Lop.
  • **More fragile breeds:** Netherland Dwarf, Britannia Petite (very small or delicate builds).
  • Consider temperament: some small breeds may be nervous or high-strung and not suitable for children.

Registered Rabbits

  • ARBA does **not require registration** to show rabbits.
  • Registration requires ARBA membership, a 3-generation pedigree, and a licensed registrar to submit details to ARBA.
  • Pedigree tracks ancestry and informs breeding decisions but does **not guarantee quality**.

Pedigree vs. Non-Pedigree

  • Pedigrees are tools for tracking ancestry and making informed crosses.
  • They include breed, variety, tattoo, and weight for at least three generations.
  • Even non-pedigreed rabbits can be high-quality pets or meat stock.

Meat Rabbits

  • Popular commercial meat breeds: New Zealand White, Rex, Californian, or mixes.
  • Choose stock adapted to your climate and verify growth rates (~5 lbs by 10 weeks ideal).
  • Evaluate health: check for good body condition, parasite-free, strong rear feet, straight legs, wide base, and absence of pinched hips or hollow loin.

Environment

  • Outdoor enclosures must be secure, sheltered from wind/rain, and kept cool in summer. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat.
  • Provide fans, ice bottles, ceramic tiles, and extra water when temperatures exceed 80°F.
  • Gradually acclimate rabbits to temperature changes to avoid shock.
  • For winter, provide insulated hides, heated water bottles, windbreaks, and straw or hay bedding.

Housing

  • Housing varies by breed; options include metal wire cages and hutches.
  • Wire floors provide sanitation and nail support but must be properly gauged.
  • Indoor setups: 24x24 inch wire cage with X-pen for a safe, supervised area.
  • Free-roaming without a retreat space can elevate stress and cortisol levels.

Feeding

  • A 10 lb rabbit consumes ~50 lbs of quality pellets every 2 months; smaller breeds consume ~50 lbs every 4 months.
  • Store feed in a cool, dark, dry place and use within 6 months of bagging.
  • For detailed feeding guidelines, see Rabbit Nutrition.

Enrichment

  • Even caged rabbits require toys: cardboard tubes with hay, wooden blocks, baby toys, alfalfa/timothy cubes.
  • Observe preferences; provide variety to stimulate natural behaviors.

Health Check

  • Learn routine health checking procedures before acquiring rabbits.
  • Daily: inspect body, ears, eyes, nose, teeth, and toes.
  • Trim nails as needed and monitor for abnormalities such as bumps, cuts, discharge, or uneven teeth.
  • Watch for behavioral or appetite changes.

Emergency Plan

  • Maintain carriers and have a plan for disasters (hurricanes, fire, etc.).
  • Train rabbits to enter carriers calmly.
  • Recommended medical kit contents:
    • Safeguard, Baycox, Jumpstart paste, raw honey
    • Pen G, LA200, probiotic powder, BounceBack, electrolyte powder
    • Luer lock syringes (1cc, 3cc), dosing syringes (3cc), needles 22g & 14g
    • Mineral or olive oil, Ivermectin (injectable & pour-on)
    • Gauze, tape, kitten cone collars, towels, nail clippers, slicker brush, talcum powder
    • Karo syrup, septic powder, alcohol, Bactine, lidocaine spray, Vaseline, Monistat 7, athlete's foot cream, triple antibiotic ointment (no painkillers), children's Benadryl liquid
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